After a few days of enjoying the area I began riding east away from the mountain and onto the prairie.
The 64 miles to Cut Bank, MT. without the long climbs was fast and easy. I finished mid afternoon. The motel is next door to a grocery, this made getting dinner and food supplies for tomorrow quick and easy.
Today I hiked with Nancy in East Glacier. We drove to Saint Mary and rode the park shuttle bus.
Glacier views.
Snow angels.
Squirrels.
Mountain goats.
Longhorn Sheep.
More views.
A while back a freak heatwave with 128° temperature the sap caught on fire and trees burned from the inside out killed the trees and left behind a ghost forest.
Saint Mary waterfall.
A thunderstorm came through overnight but all was dry in the morning. I wanted to leave and start the climb on Going-to-the-Sun Road, bikes are not allowed on two sections between 11AM and 4PM. This is a long climb, 31 miles, to the top of Logan Pass. I opted to leave a bit later and have a hefty breakfast so I began climbing at 8AM.
The grade was gradual along Lake McDonald.
The views up to the tunnel at the hairpin.
Now I am riding on the side of the road next to a 15 inch high stonewall, the only thing between the road and a 2,000 foot drop to the valley floor.
I stopped for a 30 minute break at the summit visitor center and visited with the people waiting for the shuttle bus.
The way down was steep with shape curves, many photo stops before reaching the bottom.
There was a traffic jam near Saint Mary Lake, a grizzly bear was feasting on berries about 50 feet down the bank on the side of the road.
In Saint Mary I stopped for food, ice cream and Dr. Pepper before heading to the campground. Nancy chose Duck Lake Campground for our meetup. My map showed two Duck Lake campgrounds, there has been limited cell service for the past three days so I have not been able to discuss which campground. Going by our last conversation I thought she was in Browning 46 miles away so that is where I headed. I get into Browning and the campground does not exit! I finally am able to contact Nancy, she is in Babb another 30 miles away. CRAP! Babb is 10 miles from Saint Mary where I had stopped to eat! Nancy drove to Browning, picked me up and drove me to the campground. I will stay here a few days to explore the Glacier Park together before continuing east.
With on need to hurry I took my time in the morning. I enjoyed coffee and a breakfast of yogurt with granola and a fresh peach. It’s a short day, 34 miles to the campground at the Glacier Park entrance. Bicycles are only allowed on the Ride-to-the-Sun Road before 11:00AM and after 4:00PM.
I am now set up in a campsite. Apgar Village with stores and restruants are only a half miles on the bike trail. It’s quiet and peaceful here, I am enjoying the quiet as the sun fall to the horizon. I just might ride into town for an ice cream before bed.
I woke up and looked outside, it was raining. There wasn’t any rain predicted the last time I checked so I opened my weather app, yup rain but it would be over by 9 AM. I sat back down to wait out the rain.
Now, finally on the road, I was soon on the old highway that follows the Tobacco River. It was nice to be off the busy route 93. While stopping to take a photo Dave came along, he is doing the Great Divide so we only rode to the next intersection before parting.
Now back on route 93 heading into Whitefish I see two touring cyclists coming towards me, we stop to chat. Mary, from Rhode Island was leading the way and MJ joined her somewhere along their route. Mary started the Northern Tier from her home riding up to Massachusetts to pick up the Erie Canal Trail to connect to the Northern Tier. I told her of my tour and that I am now heading home to Ashfield, Massachusetts. Mary rode through Northampton and up into Goshen. She stopped at a farm stand there to get vegetables for dinner, she planned to sleep in the DAR Campground.at the farm stand she was invited to camp on their lawn. I said Oliver’s? Yes was her answer. I told her that my home is 3 miles from there going through the DAR.
I am now spending the night at Warmshowers hosts Chuck and Rita. After a wonderful visit I am ready to sleep.
Yesterday I was packed and ready to leave and while finishing my cup of coffee I noticed the hitch on the car was hanging low. The hitch is mounted on the frame that supports the bumper and this frame is broken. The day was spent finding someone to replace the hitch with one that attaches to the main frame and welding the broken bumper frame section. This will be done tomorrow so Nancy and I felt comfortable with me leaving today.
I started riding in the morning coolness following the Koocanusa Lake to Rexford. The last ten miles brought me closer to the Rocky Mountains in the near distance.
Today I stopped at a convenient place for the night in Eureka, MT. with a 44 mile day.
Nancy booked a site on Koocanusa Lake above Libby Dam 104 miles away. I had planned to ride two 50 mile days to get there.
The day never got too hot, the 90° high felt like a cold front compared to a week ago.
The riding was easy and I was making good time, the miles were flying by. The options to stay overnight were slim so I decided to ride through the day to arrive before the sun set.
I saw a bar/grill on route 56 near Bull Lake so I stopped and had a 3 o’clock lunch. The place was full with a motorcycle club, the Montana Road Savages. I was questioned by one of them about my trip, he was very interested and impressed. During my meal he told the club what I was doing. As they were leaving the leader stopped to ask more questions, one was “do you carry anything for protection”. I told him that I am carrying bear spray. He replied, “I mean are you packing to protect yourself while camping overnight”. I responded with I don’t worry about that. “You are very brave”, he said. I thanked him and then asked if that implied if I was carrying would that mean I wasn’t brave. After a moment of silence he said, “You have big balls to ask that”! He then made me an honorary member of the club.
I continued on and made it to the campsite before dark and told Nancy of my membership. I think she was both impressed and proud.
I have an 88 mile day to get to Sam Owens Campground where Nancy has set up camp.
Most of the morning is riding along the bank of the Pend Oreille River.
Heading into Sandpoint on the bikeway I join another cyclist, Chen, riding east on the Northern Tier. We have lunch together before parting. He is heading to a Warmshowers host nearby and I continue on route another 22 miles to the campground.
The campsite is nice with plenty to do so I spend an extra day kayaking with Nancy. I foolishly sunburn my feet during the 4 hours of paddling.
We later had a nice dinner at the harbor restaurant.
I pedaled out of the campground and got back on route. Construction was just starting so I was able to zip right through to the nice back country roads.
This day only warmed to 92° so I moved along and covered ground, 74 miles.
I stopped at Panhandle Campground to spend the night beside the Pend Oreille River.
Today I will ride to Kettle Falls Campground where Nancy has set up camp. I have 44 miles and one climb to get there, Sherman’s Pass.
The start is cool with a slight headwind, this feels good compared to the crippling heat of the past weeks. I have areas of shade and a constant grade of 6%.
Once over the top I coast the last 18 miles. It is noon and the sun is heating up the day.
The campsite is on the banks of Roosevelt Lake, Nancy and I go for a swim to cool off. We bring the two dogs and put them into the water. These dogs do not like water. The cooling off refreshed all of us.
