Author: russloomis

Last night I studied the weather, mileage between places to sleep, and distances I could ride this bike hauling sixty pounds up hills. Rain is in the forecast for Friday and Saturday. I want to be at Nancy’s campsite in Pancake Bay, two hundred seventy-six kilometers (one hundred seventy-six miles) away. I checked the route for places to stay, camping or motels. The first day would be thirty-five kilometers, the second is eighty-eight kilometers, the third is 100 kilometers, and the next is sixty-five kilometers to Pancake Bay. There are thirty-eight major climbs, so it is not an easy stretch. The campgrounds are now set, so I need to pull this off and get there before the rain. I will be able to rest listening to the rain warm and dry.

It is a short day, so I linger over breakfast and coffee. The panniers are still packed from yesterday. I’m on the road at 11:20. I am now riding mostly in the Superior National Forest. This section has many small lakes scattered throughout the trees.

Today I have two options for sleeping in White River. One is camping for free on the lawn of the visitor center. The second is a motel right on the highway. I get into town, a very small town of between eight hundred and a thousand people. There are choices for stocking supplies and restaurants for dinner and breakfast. The visitor center is right next to the highway. It’s well lit and noisy. And, rain is coming overnight, just long enough to make tomorrow a late start. I choose the White River Motel.

I settle in and then walk the short distance to the White River Bar and Grill. The food is good, the dessert is super.

I then walk across the street to the Winnie the Pooh park. This is where the story of Pooh began, a real black bear.

The story

On August 24, 1914, Lieutenant Harry

Colebourn, a Canadian Army veterinarian from Winnipeg, was traveling by train through White River on his way to military training for World War I.

During the train stop, he encountered a trapper with an orphaned female black bear cub.

Colebourn bought her for $20 and named her “Winnipeg,” after his hometown. He soon shortened it to “Winnie.” 

Winnie went with Colebourn to England and became a beloved mascot. When Colebourn’s unit went to France, he left Winnie at the London Zoo.

A young Christopher Robin Milne became fascinated with Winnie at the zoo and named his own teddy bear after her.

Christopher Robin’s father, A. A. Milne, subsequently used the name Winnie for his famous character. Winnie-the-Pooh was published in 1926.

It is only 7 pm but I’ll be in bed shorty.

It rained all night, a steady downpour. I’m inside dry, my bike is also dry. All but one pannier is packed and on the bike. Yesterday I only removed one rear pannier. Everything I need for a motel stay is in that bag. I emptied the contents, the sleeping bag is airing out on a side of the king-size bed. All the camp clothes are also spread out in the air. So today, packing is easy and quick and all my clothes have lost the damp feel.

I put everything back into the pannier and walk down the hall to the breakfast room. The selection, eggs and sausage, fruit cups, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, muffins, and bagels. Orange juice and coffee are in cups on the table. This food is now refueling my muscles.  On the way out I grab some bagels for the road. On average, it is ninety kilometers between places to restock. I am now set for the day.

It is 9 a.m. and I am outside straddling the bike.  The air is still holding mist and the road is damp. I begin the ride, the shoulder disappears and a passing semi blows road spray on my bare leg. It feels cold and soon dries as my legs turn propelling me on my way. There are hills but I climb them in the big ring. Up until now I have had to drop into the granny to climb.

The day stays overcast blocking the sun’s heat. This is also a relief. The sixty-one kilometers is passing quickly. I notice that my legs feel right again. They are tired with plenty of pop. This is how they should feel on a loaded tour.

I get to the sign for the campground on White Lake. Turning off the Trans-Canada onto a small park road feels good, I’m almost to the end and it’s early in the afternoon. But wait I still have one more hill to climb. I get to the entrance gate and check in. Then I find that missing hill. A long steep climb! The road levels and I arrive at Nancy’s site. Moe wakes and notices me, I am greeted by a hopping bouncy pup, all smiles and full of licks.

Nancy makes us sandwiches. Then we walk to the beach. We find a ball on the shore, Moe now has a souvenir and the amazing thing, this dog does not like water or to be anywhere near it. But, he will go into the water to retrieve this ball!

I am now relaxing into the cool evening air. 

As I lay on the mattress wrapped in a warm sleeping bag, I soon realized that I stayed up a bit too late. It was so worth it! This morning I feel sluggish. It is still early, I don’t need to rush. I soon reach for my riding clothes and dress for the day. I roll up the mattress and stuff it into its bag.

Feeling a low-calorie balance from yesterday’s long climbs, I put oatmeal into the pot and light the stove. I begin packing the fly; there is no dew this morning. Next the tent, and with the panniers packed, I walk to the shore for the morning view.

Now ready to ride, my head needs to catch up; the morning stale is still musty in my brain. Off I ride into the chill. I first ride over the Tyler and Dawn’s campsite. One last chance to visit. Now I am really starting the ride. I have twenty-eight kilometers to Marathon. There I have a couple of options to sleep. One is off route four kilometers to a town campground. The other is a motel right on the route. It is supposed to rain by 3 p.m. and continue until 8 a.m. the next day.

I’m riding a short distance, but the many long climbs and fast descents with tractor trailers buzzing by are both physically and mentally draining.

I get to where I need to decide. The motel is right in front of me. It is 12 p.m. and the Airport Motor Inn wins over the campground.

I walk in and ask for a room; they have one for me. It is noon; check-in is 3. I’m told to come back later. I ask if when the room is ready, I would be able to check in early. The answer is yes. I go next door to a convenience store and get ice cream, a coke, and snacks then walk back to the motel. The door opens, and I’m told the room is ready. It is 12:30 p.m.

I move into the room, it’s clean and cozy.

I shower, change, and relax until 4:30. I call for a pizza delivery for dinner. It is raining now, and I’m inside, comfy and dry. This makes for a good night and a better morning start.

Six o’clock came early. I was in a sound sleep, then I was awake. Just like that, the day begins. I roll up the mattress and pack everything. Next is taking down and packing the tent. Nancy and Moe are still asleep. My panniers are piled by the car, ready for what’s ahead.

I open the car door. Moe hears what’s happening and makes his woofing. I hear him inside the door. I open it, and out he comes. He is also ready for whatever is ahead, no idea, but he is ready. I feed him breakfast.

Nancy gets up and takes him on a walk-about. After we finish eating, we load the camper with my bike and gear. Nancy will drive me the twenty kilometers to Terrace Bay. This will take the sting out of those extra early miles.

We are soon at a gas station in Terrace Bay. There is not much here: a gas station and a few motels along the road. The next street, behind the gas station, is a small business district with a brewery and a few stores. I unload my bike from the camper and put the panniers on the bike.

Off I ride. Before I’m out of town, Nancy goes by with a horn toot. I begin my fifty-eight-kilometer ride to my campground. I was warned by many people that the hills will be long and brutal. Turns out, this is no exaggeration.  Hill and after long hill, I get to a construction section of the Trans-Canada. Atop the last hill, as I wait, the flagger offers me a bottle of ice water. We visit as I wait for the oncoming traffic to go by. I am given the go-ahead. I top the hill and drop to Lake Superior and enter Neys Provincial Park.

It is about three kilometers to the campground. I check in and ride to my site. The first thing I do is eat and set up the tent. Walking to the shower building is next. I string a line and attempt to dry my clothes.

Then I walk to the shore. This is a nice, quiet campground with big sites and. Lots of trees.

The day is ending as I sit in my comfy camp chair. I am glad I brought my down jacket to ease the chilly air from the lake.

I am walking along the lake, hoping for some good sunset photos. I get to the end of the loop and begin talking with the family camping at the last site. They are from Thunder Bay. I tell them that I stayed there five nights ago. At a Warmshowers host whose name is Dan. The women say Morrison? They, Tyler and Dawn, are friends of his. Soon, another couple, Winston and Sarah, come to visit; they are also friends of Dan. I stay well after sunset visiting. Tonight, I was given a gift.

Sleeping in the tent last night was peaceful and comfortable. A perfect temperature. I slept in until 8 a.m.

I feel fresh and have a lot of things to get done before leaving tomorrow. First up is breakfast, toast, and eggs. Then enjoying fresh-brewed coffee. I take my time sipping the coffee, enjoying every bit. The cup is empty.

I clean the dishes and open RwGPS and create a route to Nancy’s next campground three days away at White Lake Provincial Park. Then my reservation is made at Neys Provincial Park for tomorrow night. I will assess tomorrow’s ride to see where I might stay the second night.

We clip Moe to his leash and hike to Rainbow Falls.

We decide to hike the trail on the edge of the lake back to our site.

Now back to getting things in order to head east. This campground has a laundry, all my sweat-soaked clothes go into the washer. Back at the site, we have peanut butter and banana sandwiches, these taste extra yummy touring. It is now time to walk to the utility building and put the wash into the dryer.

After collecting the laundry, I hang a line to air dry the things that feel slightly damp.

The nice pasta dinner Nancy whipped up fit the bill. It is fading into dusk as I sit enjoying a beer. Tonight is also feeling like a great sleeping night.

My eyes opened at 6:40 this morning. I have a long day riding some long, steep hills. I dress and begin packing up. The fly is wet, the bike cover is wet, dew is on the outside, and moisture from the ground wets the underside. Checking the weather, some rain at 8 a.m. I want to be all packed before the rain. Breakfast is dry granola and a pint of orange juice. I take a morning photo of the harbor, then begin pedaling toward the route. It is 9 a.m. and misting.

The long journey begins. I get back on route in three kilometers. I have another seventy to go. The suspension bridge gets me across the Nipigon River.

I found out last night that this river is the largest source of Lake Superior.

I soon begin climbing and descending. The small hills of the day. Thirty kilometers done, now the hills get long and steep. After each climb, I drop back down level with the lake.

I ride this terrain all day until I begin the last climb of the day. This climb is under construction with only one lane open. The flagged directs me to ride in the coned off the work zone. Finally, I get to the end of construction. The flagger on this side is standing at the park entrance. I cross the cones and ride into the campground.

Nancy is waiting for me. It is 4 p.m. I am hot and tired. I drink a Gatorade and then an ice-cold pint of beer. Nancy cooks steaks on the grill. Steak and salad. I dry my tent and gear in the late-day sun. Then a shower, a long, hot shower! I feel human again. We relax, walk Moe, and visit others in the neighboring sites.

The day is done.

By the time I went to bed, all my clothes and gear were dry. The air was damp and uncomfortably warm. I knew it would chill overnight. Just hours later, I pulled my sleeping bag over me.

This morning, the outside of the tent is covered with dew. The inside is damp with condensation. Everything feels damp. The store opens at 7 a.m. I am dressed and ready for breakfast and coffee. The sleeping bag and bedding are packed in their sacks. I walk over to the store.  The sun is now up and beginning to dry the tent. I move the tent off the grass onto the dry gravel driveway. This quickly dries the tent to pack. My ground cover is also dry. Minutes later, all is packed onto the bike, and I’m ready to ride. But first, I stop and visit with the Co-op owner. His son lives in Rhode Island.

The plan is to ride a short day to Nipigon and camp overnight in the city marina campground. Nancy will go to Rainbow Falls Provincial Park; that would be a seventy-mile day for me. I start riding, and the closer I get to Nipigon, the greater the temptation to suck it up and go the distance to Rainbow Falls.

The Trans Canada is hit or miss with a shoulder to ride. I begin on barely a six-inch shoulder with busy tractor-trailer traffic buzzing by as I cling to the edge that drops off to a rough gravel ditch. Then nine-foot-wide shoulders when the road splits into a divided highway.

I get to the edge of Nipigon and stop for lunch. I’m still juggling the scales of going on or stopping and resting at the harbor. I choose to stay at this campground. I ride in and set up camp. I can see tomorrow’s route a short way up the water, a suspension bridge.

It was hard to admit, but this short day before tomorrow’s fifty-mile ride is a good choice.

Last night was a late night. I had so much fun visiting with Dan, Warmshowers host, that time kicked in to warp drive.

Morning also came early, and I didn’t notice until 7:30. Dan is up and offers breakfast: fried potatoes, last night’s pork, veggies, and eggs. Then more visiting. I got a late start. I have 70 kilometers to Canyon Country Co-op, where I will pitch a tent for the night.

Reconnecting to my route was easy. There is a convenience store at the intersection, so I filled my bottles with Gatorade. The first twenty kilometers of the route is on Lakeshore Drive, a quiet back road, that is keeping off the Trans-Canadian Highway.

The rest of the seventy kilometers is on Rtes 11&17.

Within two kilometers, the rain starts. It has looked like rain all afternoon. Now I am less than .1 kilometers from the Co-op when I see a cyclist heading toward me. We stop and visit. Mathieu is riding to Vancouver. Tomorrow, he will be staying at the same Warmshowers where I stayed last night.

I am now where I will camp tonight. I’ve eaten: a burger and onion rings.  I am now resting in the shade. I will wander over in a bit for ice cream.

Today I get to ride a bicycle on roads I have not yet ridden. Yesterday I changed the plan to a shorter day, finishing in Thunder Bay. I will be hosted by Dan, a Warmshowers host.

Off I go with panniers packed for four days. Nancy and Moe walk with me a short bit. Moe is not at all happy watching me farther and farther down the road. His yelps fade into the distance as I fade out of sight.

I leave the park and merge onto the same highway that drove us from the last campground. I soon start riding a nice quiet country road, a straight shot to the north side of Thunder Bay. This is where my host lives. I decide to drop South the Fork William.

After maybe an hour I begin my ride to the host. Most of the way is on bike trails.

I arrive. Dan comes out to welcome me into his home. Grilled pork chops with fresh vegetables and salad picked from his garden, a great dinner. I also meet and share stories with Jim, his friend.

Fed, showered, and tired, I climb the stairs to fall asleep.

The loud, constant traffic noise drowned out my sleep. I’m a bit tired this morning. Nancy and Moe came back from a walk and let me know that she was at the office and switched campgrounds. We are at Riverside, and will be moving to Whispering Hills. It will be a short distance up the hill and away from the highway. Checkout is at 2 p.m., so we have time to kill. I make breakfast and enjoy a morning coffee.

I break down the tent and gear and stuff it all into the camper. We hitch up, Nancy drives out of the site, and I follow on my bicycle.

OK, we are here, this site has electric hook-up. The post is a difficult distance that requires backing the camper with the rear hovering over the fire pit. This area is not level, so three blocks under the low wheel and the camper is level. I set up the tent in the corner of the site.

We go to see Kakabeka Falls.

Now back in our site, that has little to no cell coverage. I can get a text to send at snail’s pace. The speed of communicating is about as fast as mailing a letter through the post office and getting the reply. I did finally set up an overnight at a Warmshowers in Thunder Bay for tomorrow night.