Category: Touring

I rode away from Henry’s Lake a bit later than planned. The huckleberry pancakes were a treat but slowed the morning start. Nancy was rushing to go to a nature preserve and I was trying to pack and not forget anything. Once I pedaled away I began to relax.

My route, a detour around Yellowstone, was on rte 87 bringing me to the upper entrance of Yellowstone to connect with the TransAM route. Ten mile into the ride I was on the opposite side of Henry’s Lake and I could look across and see Nancy’s camper. Riding the wide shoulder I heard metal under the rear tire and a pop and hiss. The metal sliced the tread and the ¼” slit was spurting sealant. I laid my bike on its side and rotated the wheel until the cut bled the tire on the gravel shoulder. I took out my tools and plugged the hole then removed the valve core fed sealant into the tire. After replacing the core I pumped the tire, all this without needing to remove the wheel from the bike, and rode off down the road to the Montana state line. Tubeless rocks!

Today I found that elusive tailwind! It really does exist after all. This is the first tailwind I have had since Virginia as I began riding west.

I’m now in Ennis, MT. relaxing at a cycling hostel.

Rolling my bike out the door into a 35° crisp day I begin my 53 mile trip to Henry’s Lake, ID. It’s 6 AM and the rain is predicted to begin by 10 AM. Riding in the cold is a better option than riding in cold rain. Today I will ride through the Mesa Falls parkway in the Caribou-Targhee National Forest.

My first 30 miles were quiet with only a few cars and two touring cyclists heading for the east coast. I am in an evergreen forest with wet meadows and fields of flowers. A habitat for bear, moose, and elk, I only saw an elk.

The cold rain began as I was leaving the forest to connect with SR 20, a busy highway. Now, 47° and hard steady rain I pedaled on with frozen hands. I stopped at a gas station for warm coffee, warming my finger around the cup before drinking the brew. I also bought a pair of glove liners hoping to keep the cold from my fingers.

With only five miles to go the sun popped and the rain cleared. I arrived at the campsite and I clipped and leaned my bike up against the camper. Nancy and the dogs, Scooby and Moe came out to greet me. Today I felt much better so I hope this is the beginning of the end of my COVID.

Today I left Driggs after a quick breakfast pedaling for Ashton, ID. The rain and thunderstorm was on its way and I would like to stay ahead of the front and get settled in before it catches me. I have 40 miles to ride with the storm nipping my heels while booming in the near distance.

I was routed on a nice gravel bikeway.

I made it into town around noon and was lucky enough to get a room, the last one in town. With Yellowstone closed all the area towns and campgrounds are full. After a shower ans relaxing I walked up the street and had dinner at the Five 11 Pizzeria. It was raining as I walked back to my room.

Before leaving Jackson I had a nice breakfast at the Bunnery, the Jackson omelette. The first few miles rolled along a nice quiet bikeway bringing me to the Teton Pass. Up, up, and straight up it was. The old Teton Pass road is now the bikeway up the pass so it was a lot steeper and windy than the new roadway. I was looking at some 18% grades, hauling my 70# loaded bike up to the top powered by my sorry sick ass.

I stopped at a small lake half way up to drink and eat hoping to stop my coughing fit.

Once at the top I once more ate and drank while talking with other cyclists that had also reached the top.

The long switchback drop to the valley of small towns below provided enough recovery to make it to Driggs, ID and find a place to get settled in and have dinner. I’ll be sleeping early tonight. Tomorrow, hopefully, will be an easier day with more miles forward.

Today I left Coulter Bay Campground in the Grand Teton Park after a four day rest. My route was to go through Yellowstone but just before getting there the Park closed. Rain and water damage washed out the roads so my route was altered into Jackson, WY. going around the park through the Tetons.

Following the advice from my sister I am riding short days and getting lots of rest. The chest cold I have been riding with for ten days turned out to be COVID. The northwest is a hotspot and riding isolated wasn’t enough protection even with the vaccinations.

Short miles are better than no miles!

Today I left at 5:30 AM to stay ahead of the wind and to beat the afternoon rain. The temperature of 48° and the soft cool wind felt nice and pants with a windbreaker would make for a comfortable ride. From Jeffery City the first eleven miles are a steady low grade climb.

The scenery begins to change and soon I am at the crest with views of the valley below. As I turn into a lookout another cyclist is approaching ahead of his riding companion. They see me and also come into the lookout. Two Brits greet me with warm smiles and hearty hellos. They are riding 120-160 miles per day on their loaded bikes. Their visas are holding them to a tight schedule.

As I get close to Nancy’s campsite at Twin Pines RV Park I hit road construction and get held up. I can see the campground just up the road but I was not allowed to go ahead riding the shoulder so I waited in line for the pilot car to lead us up the road. As I wait I am by a flashing sign announcing that all roads into Yellowstone are closed due to flooding and road damage. Now I need an alternate route around the park.

I set my alarm for 5:00 AM for an early start to beat the wind. It seems that in Wyoming as the day heats up the wind picks up. Yesterday was a struggle pedaling into the wind, today the wind will be stronger. After a motel breakfast I began my journey to Jeffery City.

The only place for food and water would be a gas station convenience store in Muddy Gap at the 3 Forks. A cyclist stopped as I was eating, a Canadian from Montreal racing this route. He leaves and as I ready to set off I see Nancy with the Tea Pot parked at the intersection. I start to text but she drives away. She gets the text and waits up the road for me to catch up.

We visit before Nancy heads to her campground near Lander, I head to my sleeping spot, a cycling hostel in Jeffery City.

The wind picks up with eight miles to go. I arrive tired from another day of battling wind. It’s now 3 PM as I open the door to the host, I see two bicycles against the wall and I add mine making three. TJ and John had arrived for the night, they are both riding east separately.

After settling in and cleaning up we walk to the cafe/bar for dinner. We chat while eating and head back for an early bedtime. It will be another early start trying to get ahead of tomorrow’s wind.

I left Saratoga Lake behind with Nancy and the doggies this morning to ride the 42 miles to Rawlins, WY. The terrain looked easy enough with no large climbs so a 10  AM start should get me there around 2 PM leaving me with a relaxing afternoon for setting up camp and seeing the town.

It wasn’t far into the ride that I began pushing into the building headwind. The forty mile per hour wind never let up, I struggled to stay on the road as the traffic buzzed by. Halfway to Rawlins I stopped at a convenience store to fuel up my tired hungry body. I watched as a motorcyclist mounted his Indian touring bike to drive away from the pump, a gust of wind tipped the motorcycle on its side. It took four of us to set it back on its wheels. I then followed the route up the on ramp of Interstate 80 to finish my ride to Rawlins.

On the Interstate I still battled the wind but I now had an 8 foot shoulder, plenty of room for the wind to push me around without coming close to the fast moving traffic. Riding up to the crest of one of the rolling hills a strong gust blew me off the shoulder onto the grass. There was a pickup pulling a large camper that also was in the path of the blast of wind, the camper almost flipped. The driver was able to get control and continue without damage.

I finally arrived in Rawlins exhausted, too tired to find a campsite and setup for the night. I rolled into a motel and got a room.

Today I feel better and so I will ride to Saratoga, WY., 70 miles away..Nancy will also get a campsite at the Saratoga Lake Campground. She now has come down with the cold I am getting over so she plans to stay two days there before heading out.

Leaving Walden is mostly dropping in elevation before climbing into Wyoming. The scenery is also changing, the hills and plants are a nice visual change.

The crossing into Wyoming was not photo worthy.

Eleven miles before Riverside, WY. was under major construction. The road was scarified and single lane, I was riding a bike so I was allowed to go ahead while dozens of cars were waiting for the pilot car to lead them through.

Once in the small town of Riverside I was hot, hungry, and thirsty. The grocery store had a porch swing so I sat and devoured a pint of ice cream and two bottles of ice tea. I also got to visit with the townspeople.

The last twenty miles to Saratoga Lake Campground was a bit windy and rolling. These miles went by quickly before riding down Main Street on the last two miles of today. I am now at camp enjoying the breezy blowing across the lake.

I decided to stay another day in Walden to rest up, visit the Arapaho Wildlife Reserve, and to go over my bike to replace worn components. I also took a nap to help with the cold.