Category: Tentist and the Teapot

Oh Kentucky RV Park was filled with b i g and B I G G E R rolling home RVs. The Teapot looked like a matchstick toy by comparison and even so it was home for me for two nights and as Goldilocks proclaimed, this one is just right. This is an oasis where I will rest after putting the Appalachians behind and a comfortable place to plan the days ahead.

Today is the day I head farther west and enjoy a new Kentucky experience. Gone from the land of mullets and small towns sliding into extinction, gone are the days of dogs with snapping jaws. I am now in the land of rolling hills where the roads are dreamlike and the fields are full of bluegrass waving in the wind.

Today ended in Harrodsburg, KY in a motel room next to a Dairy Queen. The rain began wetting the ground while I walked out the door to devour dinner, my first meal since breakfast. I am excited to see what tomorrow will bring.

This morning I left the comforts of a quiet little campground in Buckhorn, KY to tackle some steep and long climbs on my 70 mile trek to Berea, KY.

These climbs started almost as soon as I left the campsite. It would turn out to be a hot day with temps near 90°. I traveled on small side roads, with very little traffic but the penalty was loose dogs to navigate around without getting bitten. It was on such a road, about midpoint into the ride that I came across another cyclist who was also touring. He, Bill Poindexter, was headed east on the same route. We stopped and exchanged contact information along with insight of what to expect along our routes and where to spend the nights along the route on the days to follow. This chance meeting filled the void of telling my story to someone who really understands this journey. Brothers in Arms, and the first cycling tourist I’ve seen since my beginning in Yorktown, VA.

From this point the rest of today’s trip was uneventful, just a slog to finish the long hard miles to Berea where I would meet up with Nancy for a catch-up day after a well deserved night sleep. I landed in camp around 7:00 PM, hung out my put-away-wet tent, and cleaned and lubed my chain while Nancy was out picking up dinner.

The sleep in the cycling hostel in Hindman was restful so I left feeling recharged to 90%. I left without a real breakfast, just a pastry and peanut butter crackers thinking that I would find a filling meal up the road. It turned out to be 15 miles of hard riding and the selection of foods was bare. Orange juice and ice cream was the least junk food in the store. This put energy back into the system and I continued to pedal along the route.

Today there were more small back roads and a few more dogs that were eager to out run and clamp a jaw full of teeth on the leg of any cyclist that happened to pass by. I’m happy to say that everyone of those dogs felt the sting of disappointment.

The day continued to heat up as the steepest climbs were under foot as I settled into my comfort zone and slowly got myself and bike to the tops of each range. After what would be my last climb of today I caught sight of an ice cream bar with real food. A cheese burger with fries and two large strawberry milkshakes were enjoyed as I sat in the shade. The owner, a very pleasant and curious woman, came over with a marker and asked me to sign the outside wall of the eating area with my name, where I was from, and the date I stopped here. After sitting in the shade and relaxing I chose to spend the night at the campground just a mile ahead. I left for the campsite leaving my name and info boldly displayed on the wall while abandoning my attempt to get to the hostel 20 miles away. I am content knowing that this is a good decision.

I left Breaks early because ahead of me is 72 miles of Appalachian steep grade climbs to get to tonight sleep at a cycling hostel in Hindman, KY. The route takes me through the small rural towns into the heart of “Appalachian poor”. Tiny rundown houses and worn out house trailers clump together along the roadside with loose dogs ready to chase and catch the few cyclists that happen to pedal by. Probably the only excitement for these stay outside dogs enjoy until another bike packer pedals by at random intervals. Today I managed to keep away from the snarling teeth of six of these neglected animals.

The many climbs gave today’s end at the hostel the satisfaction of a job well done so I have rewarded myself with pizza for dinner and a nice hot shower before going to bed. I’ve looked over my maps and the next few days are more of the same, but Berea, KY where Nancy has set up camp is the carrot to keep me going forward.

The unplanned rest day while waiting out the cold rain gave me the opportunity to catch up with blogging and emails. Just having a quiet day all to myself was the best rest day I have had since starting this tour. My logistics for the final miles to Nancy’s campsite didn’t have the usual rush to get it done before getting to sleep, waking up and packing to set off for the day. My first climb carved its way up the side of a steep mountain that I was soon to discover is Mount A. Once at the top I followed a road that dropped me into the valley below.

This final leg to the Breaks Campground rolled through small towns that have fewer than 200 people, maybe a store with gas pumps, and the occasional eatery. I found such a place around 1:30 along the route. Being hungry, I rolled over, dismounted, and went inside. BBQ pork with coleslaw sandwich and potato sliders caught my eye and delighted my stomach. While scanning the ice cream freezer I found a cup of strawberry sundae that would soon become desert.

Satisfied and full I began my final climb up the Breaks, this is the way through the Appalachians that Daniel Boone scouted as a passageway into Kentucky. This is also the passage that brings me to Nancy. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner and the next morning’s breakfast we spent the afternoon hiking the trails that showed me a hiker’s perspective of the mountains that I have been riding through this past week.

After a nice night’s sleep and breakfast Nancy, the boys, and I took a hike on one of the trails in the park to check out an old foundation in the woods. My guess is it was built in the early 1900’s as a reclusive home or camp. Today is a rest day, bike check and new rear brake pads were replaced yesterday. All set to leave tomorrow.

April 16, I helped Nancy hitch up the Teapot to leave for her next campsite in Breaks, VA. I started my ride to Troutville, VA. where I plan to stay at an Appalachian trail hostel 35 hilly miles away. I arrived late afternoon and began settling in with two other hikers, a young man with a husky dog, he was asleep, and Edna. Edna, at 61, was on her way north to finish the Appalachian Trail in Maine. The morning brought the promise of a great day of riding after the delicious home cooked breakfast provided by the host.

April 17, today I will descend off this ridge and make my way to Hayters Gap and the long and very steep switchback climb over Middle Knob Mountain to Lebanon,VA to the Elk Garden United Methodist Church bike hostel. The roads and scenery today are out of the world beautiful, but grueling with steep rollers.

Here at last, now I can eat and get to bed early. There is heavy rain coming tonight through tomorrow with high wind gusting to 50 mph. I will rest tomorrow and wait out the storm with only one more day of riding before meeting up with Nancy in Breaks, VA.

Leaving the gracious host, John Roberts of the Llewelyn Lodge, I began making my way through the Appalachians to the Four Pines hostel to spend the night. The route led me along the ridge paralleling the Appalachian Trail on very steep grades on roads that continued with a day of straight up, straight down. Seventy two miles later I arrived at my destination tired with little time left before sunset.

I cooked dinner and visited with the six hikers that were there resting for a few days after their hike of between 20 and 30 miles. I also discovered that most cyclists only cover 40 to 50 miles per day through here so this lifted my tired spirit.

I woke at 6:30, packed up and left, planning to eat along the route. Stores are not plentiful here so breakfast turned into lunch while chatting with a few friendly locals, Virginia hospitality is a wonderful thing.

I tried to put on as many miles as I could to end the day as close as possible to Nancy’s campsite at Stoney Fork Campground. After traveling 65 miles, tired with another 30 miles to go I set up camp off the roadside with barely enough daylight to set up my tent. Tomorrow is another day, hopefully fresh legs to continue the Appalachian terrain.

The sleep was just what I needed, and my legs felt fresh as I rode to the campsite. I arrived mid day as Nancy and a few fellow campers were walking on the park road. They were expecting me and were coming to greet my arrival. A shower and restful afternoon gave way to a delicious cooked meal. Very nice to be here!

Leaning the Cookie Lady on a steep climb heading to the Blue Ridge Parkway after a restful sleep I was sure the days would go smoothly until the gpx files sent me off my route. I realized it six miles later so after finding my way back and switching the route files I was on route with a twelve mile warm up and extra hill climbing. Now on the parkway, enjoying the fantastic views I settled into a rhythm and climbed most of the day. The descent off the range is fast and steep and even with a fully loaded bike I was able to enjoy cutting the curves to the valley below.

I am tired from the workout of the day and heading to Lexington, VA for a place to sleep. I found a nice B&B, the Llewelyn Lodge that is right on my route. I was graciously welcomed and offered a ride to pick up dinner.

I left the cozy cyclist room at the Methodist Church in Palmyra,VA to head west. Once on the roads out of town I rolled on nice country roads that led me to Charlottesville where I passed through the city on nice side streets that were filled with shops, bistros, and many college students. Once out onto the country roads again I got a call from Nancy, she was nearby so we connected and I was able to pick up the next section of maps I had forgotten because I will not meet up with her until Kentucky where she will be camping.

I stopped in White Hall for lunch at a small local market with so many options it was a difficult decision until I saw their BBQ pulled pork with coleslaw sandwich. It was every bit as good as I hoped, I also bought their home baked cherry turnover for after dinner.

I had been riding on rollers, short and steep, most of the day. Now they are getting steep and long, the Blue Ridge Parkway will be tomorrow’s ride. Right now I am at the Cookie Lady’s Bike House, I think I remember her offering this as a place for cyclists to sleep while on the TransAmerica route back as far as 1976. It is now filled with memorabilia from cyclists passing through.

After a nice hearty breakfast followed by coffee I packed and set off for Palmyra, VA. It is much cooler today and the 47 mile to my sleep stop was comfortable.

Rest time!