Pancakes for breakfast! Coffee at a slow pace, then packing up to move to Salt Plains State Park. The gravel roads are still wet clay; the only other road to ride west is a highway. We had decided that I would ride with Nancy to the campground. A three-hour drive in the car, a three-day slog on bicycle.
This part of Oklahoma is transforming into large open space with cultivated fields. No photos from the car window.
We arrive at the State Park and back into site #18, set up, and walk to the beach. We are the only one here. Then Nancy checked the campground map. WE ARE IN THE WRONG LOOP!
We drive over to the other loop and find the other site, the correct site, RR 018. D’oh! We go back and hitch up the camper and haul it to the correct site.
This is a much better site. We are on the riverbank; it is much cooler with the wind off the water, and there are two trees by the river space perfectly for the hammock.
The rain held off until after breakfast. I was able to cook outside in the spacious outdoors. I even had time to leisurely sip coffee. Unfortunately, my Elbow Room coffee is gone until we get back home. Then splat, a drop of rain. We packed away the chairs, and I washed my dishes in the drizzle. I prefer being in the rain over doing this in the cramped quarters of the Glamper.
Sitting inside looking at the weather, rain off and on until 3 p.m. We decided to drive to the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve. Driving the roads through the Preserve would be a good rainy day adventure.
Going into the Preserve, we came upon a small gathering of wild pigs. As we made our way over the muddy gravel, we saw a herd of buffalo.
We drove to the visitor center, and being the only ones there, the docent gave us a private tour of the museum.
I slept in the hammock last night. A nice, cool, dry wind flowed across me the way waves lap a beach. I was up with the birds. Nancy and Moe came out of the camper as I was about to step into the day.
Nancy chose a bowl of cereal. I went the opposite direction with eggs, toast, and coffee. Fueled for the morning hike, we headed to the trail to the waterfalls. Well worth the hike.
No swimming signs posted everywhere.
On the way back to the campsite, we found an old stone structure on a side hill next to the picnic area. Nestled among tables and barbecue grills is a stone pavilion similar to this structure on the hill. I decided to wander up to look at this interesting stone ruin. I found the remains of an old restroom.
I’m going to check this out.Moe make sure it’s safe.
Back from the hike, I mustered up enough energy, it is hot already, to clean my bike from that mud incident. After I took Moe to the office to buy sodas, I asked about the ruin. The answer was that it was it was one of the original park buildings, built by the CCC in the 1930s. I also learned that a short hike away are what was once a CCC camp with buildings, a blacksmith shop, a carpentry shop, and a slew of other buildings. I’m hoping we get to explore this camp while we are here.
When I arrived at Copan, I was hot and tired. I planned a new route to Osage Hills on paved roads. This will be a thirty-one-mile day instead of eighteen miles on gravel. I went to bed early and slept well until I woke at 5:30 a.m. Breakfast and coffee were first in line. Next, packing up and leaving.
The east side of Oklahoma is very hilly with lush landscapes.
The day is hot and there is no shade and a strong headwind from the south.
My lunch spot
I finally arrived at Nancy’s campsite a little past noon. Nancy got back from shopping minutes before. I settled in, sitting in the shade. We walked to the camp office before they closed to get cold drinks, two bottles of locally brewed root beer for me, one for Nancy.
It is a wonderful night with a cool breeze. I set up the hammock.
I knew today was going to be a long, hard day. Fifty-eight miles from campground to campground. I was encouraged by the gravel in Kansas. I was making good time, almost as fast as on pavement. I slept last night in the hammock, so packing up was quick. I was ready to leave by 7 a.m. I made plans with Kenny last night to meet him for breakfast and coffee.
The breakfast stop is on my route. I could also get road food. There are zero, ZERO, places to get food or water until the campground.
I left with full water bottles, a corn beef sandwich, and snack food. The first half I was still riding on Kansas gravel.
I stopped at the Oklahoma border and ate half the sandwich and a Kenny-supplied pie.
Soon after entering Oklahoma, with thirty miles to go, the gravel began to worsen, and there were now hills. Not steep, still big ring climbs.
With fourteen miles to go, I turned onto another road. Five miles south, then five miles west. On this particular road, a car approached and slowed. The man yelled, “Mud ahead.” I didn’t quite understand the meaning of this warning. I rode a bit farther and went down a hill. At the bottom, I saw red mud and deep ruts. I knew that I would need to push the bike. I sunk in two inches; the loaded bike sunk in four. This lasted a good half mile. Mud stuck everywhere, making it almost impossible to push the bike. Mud built up between the tires and fenders, cakes of red mud gumming up the cassette. The chain was wrapped in mud.
I finally got through the worst of it. I could barely push the bike. I heard a lawn mower up ahead. I got to a driveway with a closed gate. I saw a man watching me by the lawn mower. I waved and yelled, “I need help”! He yelled back that he doesn’t let anyone past the gate. I pleaded that I needed a garden hose to get the mud removed so I could continue riding. He opened the gate. I pushed the bike to him. I took fifteen minutes to hose all the mud off the bike. He hosed me off also. I was covered up to my shorts. My mind was elsewhere, no photos. Once cleaned, he filled my water bottles. He told me it was even worse up ahead and directed me to Route 10, a paved road. This added extra miles. I’m riding now in scorching heat. I get back to my route in Copan. I Google the campground. I get to the entrance where there is a bait shop across the road. I stop. I stagger in and buy two Dr. Peppers and two Gatorades. I drink the Gatorade and bring the Peppers to my campsite.
I shower and wash my clothes in the shower. I set up the hammock and cook dinner.
I got to bed late last night. Cory and I sat and talked until 10 p.m. I got a good, restful sleep and was awake at 5:30 this morning.
I wanted an early start. I was six miles from the route in Pittsburgh. Today is the start of a new section, Map 2.
Cory came outside and offered a bagel with cream cheese, yogurt, and apple juice. I was trying to dry the dew off the soaked tent. I loaded the route and got ready to go.
I rode back to my route and went onto a bike trail out of the city. I was on pavement for a few miles before being led down a gravel road.
I made my way to the Kansas Wildlife Preserve. For the next forty miles, I was in the preserve or riding around its border.
A primitive campsite in the Preserve
I was low on water as I reached Danny Elliott City Park in Oswego, KS. I stopped to fill my bottles and considered ending my day here under a massive shade tree. It was still early in the day, so I got back on the bike to pedal another ten miles of gravel.
I am now in Chetopa, KS, at the Elmore City Park for the night. To my delight and surprise, the campground has showers and a pavilion to sleep under. There is a 30% chance of rain around midnight.
As I was settling in, an ATV came over, and Kenny, who lives nearby, offers his kindness to campers in the park. I graciously accepted three boxes of mini pies, apple juice, and a hammock to stretch between the poles of the pavilion.
There is a wonderfully dry breeze. I think I’ll sleep well.
I discussed options for today with Nancy. I need to get to Pittsburg, MO. today to be on schedule. Yesterday, Cory offered me a place to camp on their property. Cory, Ashlee, and their wonderful son, Owen, live north of the city of Pittsburg. From Stockton Lake State Park to Greenfield, MO, to get back on route, the distance is twenty miles. From Greenfield to Pittsburgh, it is fifty-six miles. We had planned that Nancy would shuttle me back to my route.
Nancy agreed to bring me to Lamar, MO, to pick up my route there. This would allow us a more relaxed morning. And, a more relaxed day of riding.
We get to Lamar around eleven a.m. I load my bike and grab a bite to eat, then begin the ride to Pittsburg. Nancy and Moe head back to Stockton Lake.
Back roads riding west.
I cross into Kansas on the TransAm Route at mile 25.5 at 2/40 p.m. I rode here back in 2022.
I arrived at my host’s home at 4:20 p.m. Cory came home a few minutes later. I am relaxing in the shade, gulping ice water. I’m going to let it cool a bit before setting up camp.
Today began sort of so-so. Breakfast, visiting neighbors, and relaxing with coffee. But, the coffee was not so relaxing. Nancy informed me that she has a problem. Her iPad slipped down a crack behind a storage lid and the sloping ceiling. The area is not accessible! We removed things out of the storage and cleared the bed. I started removing the screws to remove the storage box. It won’t slide out with the slope. We needed to move the wall panel 1/4” forward to get it out. The twelve screws to be removed, for no foreseeable reason, had a combination of three different heads. Each of the three required different bits. The Camp Host lent us her set of bits, with lots of contorting to fit into the small space, sweat, and aggravation. We were able to locate and retrieve the iPad. Swearing the whole time was not an option; this was the only easy thing during the duration.
All is packed back up and put away. It is hot and humid. We are in the shade, enjoying the breeze.
As the heat of the day waned, we took cool showers to get rid of the sweat and to cool our bodies. I grilled two hot dogs and finished a rice and carrot side dish cold from the refrigerator.
We gave in and turned on the air conditioner. Cool and dry, soon drifting off to sleep.
The cell service sucked just as badly this morning. I do not understand how having two bars of 5G is not enough to load any of my apps, weather, Google Maps, or RWGPS. I need to be able to open these to load my route and plan my sleep stops.
Instead of cooking breakfast, we decided to drive to the town of Stockton. There is a laundromat and places to eat. In Stockton, I was still getting 5G cell service, but here everything opened quickly. I was able to plan the first day that I leave. I should be in cell coverage once again for a while anyway.
We got back to the campsite mid-afternoon. I rested. By dinner time, the thunder and rain came, keeping us under the screen tent and camper.
The rain begins this morning at 5:30, but today it arrives as a downpour with thunder and lightning.
I went back to sleep until 6:30. No reason to hurry; the thunder and rain is here until 11:00. I only have a twenty-three-mile ride to Nancy’s campsite at Stockton Lake State Park.
Once up, I began packing up the tent and gear; everything is damp. I set up under a shelter so nothing is soaked. It had been raining since 3 p.m. yesterday. It poured overnight.
With everything packed except the cooking gear, I cooked oatmeal. Once eaten, I brewed coffee and sat on the bench enjoying my cup of Elbow Room with an oatmeal raisin cookie.
It is now 11, and the rain is clearing, and I see bits of blue sky in the distance. I load my bike and fill the water bottles. I start my GPS and begin today’s ride.
I am riding off the planned route, so last night I mapped a route to Stockton Lake. I began riding out of town on a small county road. After eight miles, I turned onto a nice gravel road through rolling farmland. The steep hills are behind me; I’m out of the Ozarks.
Cattle in waterhole.
With less than ten miles left, I was once again on pavement. Just small country roads. A gas station with some food options, one being pints of ice cream, Dr. Pepper, and Gatorade. I bought all three of these. All was gone in fifteen minutes.
I begin the last three miles to the campsite. It is hot with no rain in sight. I string a line and dry the tent, sleeping gear, and the wet rain gear. Then I enjoy a shower and dinner, burgers and a rice side dish. We visit with campsite neighbors. Their son is now riding ACA’s Route 66.
