Cycling

July 28, 2025

10:59 AM 

A later start than expected. This spot is nestled in the trees with a forest like feel. The sites are spread out which gave me a sense of solitude. The morning sun was blocked behind the trees with light peeking through the branches. This made drying the dew difficult, setting and replacing things back onto the moving patches of light.

Morning wakes up the sleeping campers and my site is next to the water. People are making their way to fill water jugs. Some just trudge by, still half asleep. Other look into my site and see the row of panniers waiting to be mounted. They stop to satisfy the curiosity of why, where did I start, and where am I headed. For some it’s unbelievable. For the few it leads to long conversations that sparks an urge to maybe someday they’d like to do this.

So this is why the late start. It’s ok I have a short day to Brevoort Lake Campground where I will again join Nancy.

11:41 AM 

View from Epoufette Park.

Finally off Route 2 and riding on a nice quiet local road to the Campground.

1:00 PM

Off the bike for the day. A pint of Ben and Jerry’s with a Dr Pepper, relaxing in the campground.

Day’s end, sun getting lower and a cool breeze.

Crawling out of the tent into the damp heavy fog I realized that today I was not going anywhere soon. Everything in the outside air was wet. So I packed what was dry and began the long wait. I removed the rain fly and snapped it like a wet towel. This took care of the drops of dew covering the surface but it was just as wet on the underside. I shook off the tent and carried it over to a spot of sunshine between the road and vault toilet. The drying began. This also prompted a park maintenance worker to stop and tell me that I cannot camp here. I told her that I’ve camped in this spot for three nights and no one else told me that I could camp here. This was a person with no sense of humor. She continued to scowl. After telling her that I was only drying my tent in this tiny spot of sunlight she grumbled her way out of sight. I then went over to the host site for coffee and a donut. Tales of travels were told and received.

I go back to my site to pack up what is dry.  A visitor stopped to ask about my tour and talked about his hiking adventures, the Appalachian and the Pacific Crest Trails.

Back on the road or mostly the eight foot shoulder of Route 2, the main route across the Upper Peninsula. Breathing exhaust from the traffic rushing by on the shadeless road. Miles, miles, and miles between towns. I saw Nancy go by heading to her next campsite. She, however, did not see me and disappeared.

I get to Naubinway and stop at a great burger and fish restaurant, I order a burger and milkshake. Then off to the gas station next door for bottles of gatorade. There I met a woman from England on a tour from Astoria, Oregon to Massachusetts. She and her husband are staying at the motel in town.

Now at Hog Island Point State Forest Campground I am relaxing after setting up the tent.

This morning I began riding again. Today I will start seeing the Upper Peninsula bicycle speed. Escanaba is connected to Gladstone by a bike trail along the shore of Lake Michigan.

Beyond Gladstone just small towns are scattered within the vast tundra like landscape.

Closing in on the campground with nine miles to go I stop at Latulip Brewing Company, a local brewery, fifteen minutes before it is about to open. This small brewery is family owned. It opened its doors in 2020 as COVID began revving up its grip. It survived and is now in the process of expanding its capacity. I sampled a few of the dozen taps, made my choice, an IPA and a Pils. I drank the IPA with my pizza and brought the Pils with me to camp.

The tent is pitched and the last three slices of pizza are now eaten.

Time to crack open the Pils.

Indian Lake State Park has a nice campground. I’m away from all traffic noise and close to the lake. I have a large shaded site. And, the camp host offers free coffee and donuts from 8:00 to 10:00 each morning. The donuts are donated by a local market and the State provides the coffee.

Waiting for the sun to set.

The sunset.

Nancy got up early to hike some trails before the rising temperature. Moe and I stayed behind and enjoyed breakfast. I ate eggs and then Moe enjoyed the egg plate.

Watching the sun over the lake. A moth comes for a visit.

Walking the beach and watching the waves. It is an awesome sight to see, feel and hear the power of these waves. Lake Michigan is roughly four times the size of Massachusetts.

Our last night here, tomorrow we head north along the lake.

July 21, 2025

I put last night to rest with a fire. This campground does not sell fire wood but allows people to collect dead wood for fires.

I carry while touring an eight inch saw to cut wood for fires and to clear, if needed, downed trees off the trail while riding.

This morning we drove to the Nature Center in this park to hike some of the many trails. When we closed up the car and walked to the trail we saw a sign posting No Bicycles, No Pets on the trails. Before leaving our site I was speaking to the Camp Host for places to hike. He knows we hike with Moe and suggested that we hike the Nature Center. So out on to the trails we go. Throwing caution to the wind and breaking the rules added excitement to our adventure. Moe enjoyed the outing without worry.

On our return from the hike, hungry and thirsty, I see two pieces of firewood left behind by a fire ring. Stop, I shout. Nancy brakes to a sudden stop asking “What’s the matter?” When I pointed to the two pieces of wood she was far less enthusiastic about the find than I was and reluctantly backed the car closer to the site.

Around 4:30 this afternoon I heard police and emergency vehicles over toward the beach. Then a few minutes later a half a dozen helicopters began hovering above.

The sky was filled with TV station cameras. The news is reporting that a fifteen year old boy fell into the lake in the beach area. They have been searching for over an hour. The beach has been closed since the search began.

Now at 8:45 Nancy Moe and I are in the screen tent enjoying a fire.

July 19, 2025

Waking up early and looking at the weather app we decided to head out hiking without breakfast. Heavy rain with lightning is predicted for 11:00 AM.

Illinois Canyon

Saint Louis Canyon

Saint Louis Canyon has a dark history, the Starved Rock murders. In 1960 three women, nurses, were brutally murdered while out for an afternoon hike. The bodies were found in a cave days later. A suspect was arrested and found guilty.

While finishing up in the canyon we heard thunder so off we hurried back to the car about two miles away. Large rain drops hit the parking lot pavement as we open the doors and jump into the car.

Back at the campsite we sit in our ten by ten foot pop up tent. With rain flooding the ground, we went into the camper.

An hour later the rain let up so we packed the tent and chair and got ready to drive to Ottawa to meet Alan and his friend Mimi for dinner at Bash Burger and Sushi. After a great meal and visit we go back to camp to relax for the night. Tomorrow we will leave for our next campground.

July 20, 2025

This morning we ate before cleaning up and loading my bike and gear into the camper. We hitch up in the damp muggy air and drive off to the next campground on Lake Michigan. This will be a four hour drive.

We arrive happy to be done driving and out of the car. Setting up was quick and easy. Here on the lake we enjoy the cool dry air with a nice steady breeze. Our site is on the lakeside and has a path to the beach a hundred feet walk away. We hear the waves while eating dinner.

We take Moe for a walk on the beach, he does not like water but enjoys running on the sand. The sun is beginning to set as we walk the pedestrian/bicycle path between the lake and campsites.

When we got to camp I strung a line to dry the sheets and damp clothes. For the past month the high heat with ninety plus percent humidity kept everything damp, us included.

Our windows opened wide as we fell asleep comfortably for the first night in a month.

July 15, 2025

We wake up, have breakfast, and pack up to head to Starved Rock Campground in Oglesby, Illinois. This will be about a four hour drive.

I don’t know where this truck is headed but I’m not going there for coffee.

5:00 PM

Our route brings us into the town of Wenona, Illinois. I rode into this town on my double trans continental tour in 2022. While in the City Park getting ready to set up for the night two people drove through in a golf cart and stopped to visit. Alan invited me to follow him to his home two blocks away and spend the night. I graciously accepted his invitation. This began a friendship. Now three years later I find myself in the center of his town. I ask Nancy to pull over and park while I open my phone and call Alan. After the phone rings I hear “Hi, Russ”. After a short chat I say that I am in Wenona. Alan says I’ll be there in two minutes. Nancy and I watch as he turns the corner and drives to us. We visit and make plans to meet up at our campsite in a few days.

July 17, 2025

At the campground.

Hiking along the Illinois River.

After hiking we head back to the campground. Alan will be coming to meet up with us soon. After we shower we visit and Alan takes us for a tour of Utica, Buffalo Rock, then to Ottawa for pizza at Bianchi’s Word Famous Pizza. This place lives up to its name! Than we tour the city and more sites along the way to our campsite. The visit continues until dark.

Tomorrow is another day.

The moon last night over the lake.

After breakfast we decided to spend the morning hiking some of the park trails. The weather prediction was for heavy rain with lightning strikes this afternoon. It is now about 10:00, breakfast is done and I am finishing the last sips of coffee. Nancy is anxious to start so I begin a hasty exit from my chair.

Moe, with his eager excitement, leaps into his comfy spot and off we drive to the trail head. We choose a trail that goes out to an old graveyard.

We begin the hike in the direction of the lake. We pass many interesting sights before we find ourselves at a small sandy beach at the edge of a small cove

Nancy and Moe wander into the water to cool off. I stay behind dry on the shore and capture the scene.

Everyone is now on dry land so off we go to finish the hike. I didn’t mention yet that Moe has been hiking with us off leash. Against the rules but he so much enjoys the freedom of racing ahead to turn and race back to see why we are not keeping up with him.

As we walk along the trail we head toward a bluff where the trail takes a sharp bend to the right. Moe had stopped to sniff and runs full speed to pass and get ahead again. In his playful sprint he didn’t turn with the trail. He ran full speed over the edge! We rush to the edge, the drop looks about sixty feet to the water below. We don’t see Moe. Panic begins with frantic calls to Moe. We look over the edge to see a frightened Moe on a narrow ridge. Brush had stopped his fall. He was maybe eight feet below us shaken but not hurt. We keep talking to him. We can’t get to him from the edge. We look around to the side to see if there is a less steep way down to him. As we make our way to him he is making his way to us. Nancy grabs him and lifts Moe to the top.

Back to the car we go. This is just another episode of the life of Moe. Back at the campsite we have lunch listening to the thunder booming toward us. We pack everything away and head into the camper as rain splatters on the roof. Moe, he is exhausted and sleeping on the bed. We are wondering what kind of surprises Moe is dreaming up while looking so calm and peaceful.

July 12, 2025

9:26 AM 

Waking up to a breakfast of eggs, toast, bacon, and espresso was a wonderful treat. Richard and Talulah, the Warmshowers Host, offered to host me at last minute notice. I was heading into Saint Charles without a place to sleep. Fed and rested, but most enjoyably, I was wearing clean clothes.  Saying goodbyes and thanking the gracious hosts I am heading back to the trail two miles away.

10:20 AM 

Downtown Saint Charles.

11:29 AM 

I made it to Machens, the eastern end of the Katy Trail.

12:07 PM 

Back at Black Walnut Trailhead waiting for Nancy to pick me up.

12:30 PM

Portage Des Sioux

1:57  PM

Old Bakery Beer Company in Alton, Illinois was a treat beyond expectations. Excellent beer and great food for lunch and Moe was welcomed inside to join us while we dined. Moe was served a large bowl of cold water, he was very thirsty as were we. Moe enjoyed tasty dog treats made by the brewery while we enjoyed our meal.

3:41 PM 

Cahokia mounds, built by the Osage 1100 AD. Twenty thousand people lived in this village.

7:00 PM

We finally arrive at Nancy’s campsite in Eldon Hazlet State Park in Carlyle, Illinois.