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Touring

Rainbow Falls day 2

Sleeping in the tent last night was peaceful and comfortable. A perfect temperature. I slept in until 8 a.m.

I feel fresh and have a lot of things to get done before leaving tomorrow. First up is breakfast, toast, and eggs. Then enjoying fresh-brewed coffee. I take my time sipping the coffee, enjoying every bit. The cup is empty.

I clean the dishes and open RwGPS and create a route to Nancy’s next campground three days away at White Lake Provincial Park. Then my reservation is made at Neys Provincial Park for tomorrow night. I will assess tomorrow’s ride to see where I might stay the second night.

We clip Moe to his leash and hike to Rainbow Falls.

We decide to hike the trail on the edge of the lake back to our site.

Toe trippers

Now back to getting things in order to head east. This campground has a laundry, all my sweat-soaked clothes go into the washer. Back at the site, we have peanut butter and banana sandwiches, these taste extra yummy touring. It is now time to walk to the utility building and put the wash into the dryer.

After collecting the laundry, I hang a line to air dry the things that feel slightly damp.

The nice pasta dinner Nancy whipped up fit the bill. It is fading into dusk as I sit enjoying a beer. Tonight is also feeling like a great sleeping night.

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Touring

Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, ON

My eyes opened at 6:40 this morning. I have a long day riding some long, steep hills. I dress and begin packing up. The fly is wet, the bike cover is wet, dew is on the outside, and moisture from the ground wets the underside. Checking the weather, some rain at 8 a.m. I want to be all packed before the rain. Breakfast is dry granola and a pint of orange juice. I take a morning photo of the harbor, then begin pedaling toward the route. It is 9 a.m. and misting.

The long journey begins. I get back on route in three kilometers. I have another seventy to go. The suspension bridge gets me across the Nipigon River.

I found out last night that this river is the largest source of Lake Superior.

I soon begin climbing and descending. The small hills of the day. Thirty kilometers done, now the hills get long and steep. After each climb, I drop back down level with the lake.

I ride this terrain all day until I begin the last climb of the day. This climb is under construction with only one lane open. The flagged directs me to ride in the coned off the work zone. Finally, I get to the end of construction. The flagger on this side is standing at the park entrance. I cross the cones and ride into the campground.

Nancy is waiting for me. It is 4 p.m. I am hot and tired. I drink a Gatorade and then an ice-cold pint of beer. Nancy cooks steaks on the grill. Steak and salad. I dry my tent and gear in the late-day sun. Then a shower, a long, hot shower! I feel human again. We relax, walk Moe, and visit others in the neighboring sites.

The day is done.

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Touring

Nipigon, ON

By the time I went to bed, all my clothes and gear were dry. The air was damp and uncomfortably warm. I knew it would chill overnight. Just hours later, I pulled my sleeping bag over me.

This morning, the outside of the tent is covered with dew. The inside is damp with condensation. Everything feels damp. The store opens at 7 a.m. I am dressed and ready for breakfast and coffee. The sleeping bag and bedding are packed in their sacks. I walk over to the store.  The sun is now up and beginning to dry the tent. I move the tent off the grass onto the dry gravel driveway. This quickly dries the tent to pack. My ground cover is also dry. Minutes later, all is packed onto the bike, and I’m ready to ride. But first, I stop and visit with the Co-op owner. His son lives in Rhode Island.

The plan is to ride a short day to Nipigon and camp overnight in the city marina campground. Nancy will go to Rainbow Falls Provincial Park; that would be a seventy-mile day for me. I start riding, and the closer I get to Nipigon, the greater the temptation to suck it up and go the distance to Rainbow Falls.

The Trans Canada is hit or miss with a shoulder to ride. I begin on barely a six-inch shoulder with busy tractor-trailer traffic buzzing by as I cling to the edge that drops off to a rough gravel ditch. Then nine-foot-wide shoulders when the road splits into a divided highway.

I get to the edge of Nipigon and stop for lunch. I’m still juggling the scales of going on or stopping and resting at the harbor. I choose to stay at this campground. I ride in and set up camp. I can see tomorrow’s route a short way up the water, a suspension bridge.

My route goes over this bridge.
I learned a lot of this towns history from this man.

It was hard to admit, but this short day before tomorrow’s fifty-mile ride is a good choice.

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Touring

Dorion, ON

Last night was a late night. I had so much fun visiting with Dan, Warmshowers host, that time kicked in to warp drive.

Morning also came early, and I didn’t notice until 7:30. Dan is up and offers breakfast: fried potatoes, last night’s pork, veggies, and eggs. Then more visiting. I got a late start. I have 70 kilometers to Canyon Country Co-op, where I will pitch a tent for the night.

Reconnecting to my route was easy. There is a convenience store at the intersection, so I filled my bottles with Gatorade. The first twenty kilometers of the route is on Lakeshore Drive, a quiet back road, that is keeping off the Trans-Canadian Highway.

The rest of the seventy kilometers is on Rtes 11&17.

Within two kilometers, the rain starts. It has looked like rain all afternoon. Now I am less than .1 kilometers from the Co-op when I see a cyclist heading toward me. We stop and visit. Mathieu is riding to Vancouver. Tomorrow, he will be staying at the same Warmshowers where I stayed last night.

I am now where I will camp tonight. I’ve eaten: a burger and onion rings.  I am now resting in the shade. I will wander over in a bit for ice cream.

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Touring

Thunder Bay, Ont.

Today I get to ride a bicycle on roads I have not yet ridden. Yesterday I changed the plan to a shorter day, finishing in Thunder Bay. I will be hosted by Dan, a Warmshowers host.

Off I go with panniers packed for four days. Nancy and Moe walk with me a short bit. Moe is not at all happy watching me farther and farther down the road. His yelps fade into the distance as I fade out of sight.

I leave the park and merge onto the same highway that drove us from the last campground. I soon start riding a nice quiet country road, a straight shot to the north side of Thunder Bay. This is where my host lives. I decide to drop South the Fork William.

After maybe an hour I begin my ride to the host. Most of the way is on bike trails.


I arrive. Dan comes out to welcome me into his home. Grilled pork chops with fresh vegetables and salad picked from his garden, a great dinner. I also meet and share stories with Jim, his friend.

Fed, showered, and tired, I climb the stairs to fall asleep.

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Touring

Kakabeka Falls day 2

The loud, constant traffic noise drowned out my sleep. I’m a bit tired this morning. Nancy and Moe came back from a walk and let me know that she was at the office and switched campgrounds. We are at Riverside, and will be moving to Whispering Hills. It will be a short distance up the hill and away from the highway. Checkout is at 2 p.m., so we have time to kill. I make breakfast and enjoy a morning coffee.

I break down the tent and gear and stuff it all into the camper. We hitch up, Nancy drives out of the site, and I follow on my bicycle.

OK, we are here, this site has electric hook-up. The post is a difficult distance that requires backing the camper with the rear hovering over the fire pit. This area is not level, so three blocks under the low wheel and the camper is level. I set up the tent in the corner of the site.

We go to see Kakabeka Falls.

Now back in our site, that has little to no cell coverage. I can get a text to send at snail’s pace. The speed of communicating is about as fast as mailing a letter through the post office and getting the reply. I did finally set up an overnight at a Warmshowers in Thunder Bay for tomorrow night.

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Touring

Kakabeka Falls Prov. Park, Ont.

 My eyes open and I’m wondering the time. The phone shows 6:30 a.m. I’m already awake, so I begin packing up. The valve opens, air whooshes out. I fold and roll the mattress and put it into the sack. Next, the pillow. The sleeping bag is stuffed into its bag. Everything in the tent is packed and piled next to the door. I slip on my shoes and stand out in the morning air. 

The rain fly is now off and in its stuff sack. I empty the tent and fill the panniers. The tent  is next. Once unclipped and the poles put away, the tent is put into its stuff sack. Now, the footprint is put in the sun to dry the damp underside. This entire process takes about twenty minutes. It is the routine of every morning.

The sky is getting dark. Nancy is getting the camper ready. We put my bike and gear inside, another routine if I am riding with her. The rain begins, everything has been put away dry.

We drive to Grand Marais. I get coffee and scones at a local coffee shop. Next is gas. We are now heading to the Canadian border.

We stop at Grand Portage to see the sights. Luck is with us today. There is a Rendezvous happening. Tent villages are set up. We stepped back in time to the 1700s. We spend hours looking, visiting, and learning the way of life in this trading port.

Back on the road to Canada. Entry is a breeze. We’re hoping it will be this easy coming back into the States.

We find the campground and set up camp.

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Touring

Cascade River day 2

The night went by as I slept. It is now morning, a new day unfolding. What will it bring? I climb out of the tent and find my way to the chair four yards away. It doesn’t sound like much, but this distance comes with a comfy chair. I take advantage. I sit in the cool air bundled in a fleece jacket. 

Nancy asks if I’m ready to hike. I race back in time to get my bearings. I’ve had breakfast. So, I suppose I am ready to hike. We walk to the Cascade River trail.

We follow the river to where it flows into Lake Superior.

We cross Rte 61 and begin hiking the lake trail. This trail is overgrown, but we are on the banks of Lake Superior.

We get back to the campground, and I begin to find ways to plot my route around the lake. The cell at this campground is poor, and I’m having a difficult time. We decide to drive into Grand Marais for better cell coverage.

We stop at the Voyageur Brewing Company. I put together a route that I am somewhat comfortable with. We go into the brewery for dinner. Moe is welcome on the patio. Dinner is good; the beers are excellent. I buy a six-pack to bring on tour. The waiter, Robert from Armenia, is fabulous, and I enjoy the playful conversation with him.

Now we are back at the campsite.

I’m working on the blog. Night is falling fast. Tomorrow will soon be here. This time tomorrow, I’ll be in Canada composing another blog. 

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Touring

Cascade River State Park, MN

It was cold overnight and cold this morning. I dress into fleece pants and a sweatshirt. The mosquitoes are out in force, as if it is a warm summer day. Nancy makes oatmeal as I pack up to ride the forty-four miles to our next campground.

Nancy takes Moe for his morning walk. I let them get out of sight and begin the day’s ride. I’m in no hurry. Check-in is at 4 p.m. It is 10 a.m. Nancy plans to leave at noon.

Once out of the park, I ride north on Rte. 61. The only road to choose. The shoulder is wide, allowing a good distance from cars and large truck and RV’s.

Mile twenty-two is half way to the campground. I see a bakery ahead. I stop and see a family of four waiting to cross the road. I ask about the bike trail that they were riding. Jason, please correct me if I’ve mistaken your name, compliments my bike. This begins a forty-minute conversation. I give him my contact info to follow the tour.

I order food and have a sit-down meal. I really am in no hurry.

I cross the road and begin riding the Gitche Gumee Trail. This is a great trail with interesting scenic views.

The trail ends. I have ten more miles to the Cascade River State Park.

A pot for gold waiting for a rainbow.

I arrive and park the bike, Eve R Green. I relax in a camp chair. Nancy has gone food shopping.

We are all now here. The soft, melting ice cream is eaten. I go and shower, then set up the tent for tonight.

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Touring

Tettegouche day 3

The thunder and rain rang in the midnight. Loud claps of thunder broke the silence and rattled the ground. The lightning lit the sky and the darkness in the tent.

Then the rain hit the tent. Just inches above my head roared the sound of a waterfall.

I felt cozy wrapped in the storm. Dry and safe, listening until the end. Then the quiet, and I drifted to sleep.

It is morning. The tent is covered in large wet drops with a few leaves adding their shadow to the new day.

This is our last day in this park. We go to the trailhead at the visitor center. Still a bit tired from yesterday, we begin the hike. We follow the stairway to the beach.

Then we hike the trail to one of the two lookouts. We climb step after step to the first lookout. There is a group getting ready to rappel off the cliff. We visit for about thirty minutes, learning about the youth camp and sharing our tour stories.

The hike to the second lookout is slow. Moe attracts the interest of returning hikers of all ages, from three through late seventies.

The hike is over. We are back at camp. I put my bike on the work stand. I add sealant to the tires and clean and lube the chain. It is now ready for another ride.