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Touring

Osage Hill State Park, OK

When I arrived at Copan, I was hot and tired. I planned a new route to Osage Hills on paved roads. This will be a thirty-one-mile day instead of eighteen miles on gravel. I went to bed early and slept well until I woke at 5:30 a.m. Breakfast and coffee were first in line. Next, packing up and leaving.

The east side of Oklahoma is very hilly with lush landscapes.

The day is hot and there is no shade and a strong headwind from the south.

My lunch spot

I finally arrived at Nancy’s campsite a little past noon. Nancy got back from shopping minutes before.  I settled in, sitting in the shade. We walked to the camp office before they closed to get cold drinks, two bottles of locally brewed root beer for me, one for Nancy.

It is a wonderful night with a cool breeze. I set up the hammock.

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Touring

Washington Cove COE, Copan, OK

I knew today was going to be a long, hard day. Fifty-eight miles from campground to campground. I was encouraged by the gravel in Kansas. I was making good time, almost as fast as on pavement. I slept last night in the hammock, so packing up was quick. I was ready to leave by 7 a.m. I made plans with Kenny last night to meet him for breakfast and coffee.

The breakfast stop is on my route. I could also get road food. There are zero, ZERO, places to get food or water until the campground.

I left with full water bottles, a corn beef sandwich, and snack food. The first half I was still riding on Kansas gravel.

I stopped at the Oklahoma border and ate half the sandwich and a Kenny-supplied pie.

Soon after entering Oklahoma, with thirty miles to go, the gravel began to worsen, and there were now hills. Not steep, still big ring climbs.

With fourteen miles to go, I turned onto another road. Five miles south, then five miles west. On this particular road, a car approached and slowed. The man yelled, “Mud ahead.” I didn’t quite understand the meaning of this warning.  I rode a bit farther and went down a hill. At the bottom, I saw red mud and deep ruts. I knew that I would need to push the bike. I sunk in two inches; the loaded bike sunk in four. This lasted a good half mile. Mud stuck everywhere, making it almost impossible to push the bike. Mud built up between the tires and fenders, cakes of red mud gumming up the cassette. The chain was wrapped in mud.

I finally got through the worst of it. I could barely push the bike. I heard a lawn mower up ahead. I got to a driveway with a closed gate. I saw a man watching me by the lawn mower. I waved and yelled, “I need help”! He yelled back that he doesn’t let anyone past the gate. I pleaded that I needed a garden hose to get the mud removed so I could continue riding. He opened the gate. I pushed the bike to him. I took fifteen minutes to hose all the mud off the bike. He hosed me off also. I was covered up to my shorts. My mind was elsewhere, no photos. Once cleaned, he filled my water bottles. He told me it was even worse up ahead and directed me to Route 10, a paved road. This added extra miles. I’m riding now in scorching heat. I get back to my route in Copan. I Google the campground. I get to the entrance where there is a bait shop across the road. I stop. I stagger in and buy two Dr. Peppers and two Gatorades. I drink the Gatorade and bring the Peppers to my campsite.

I shower and wash my clothes in the shower. I set up the hammock and cook dinner.

I’m ready for sleep.

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Touring

Elmore City Park, Chetopa, KS

I got to bed late last night. Cory and I sat and talked until 10 p.m. I got a good, restful sleep and was awake at 5:30 this morning.

I wanted an early start. I was six miles from the route in Pittsburgh. Today is the start of a new section, Map 2.

Cory came outside and offered a bagel with cream cheese, yogurt, and apple juice. I was trying to dry the dew off the soaked tent. I loaded the route and got ready to go.

I rode back to my route and went onto a bike trail out of the city. I was on pavement for a few miles before being led down a gravel road.

I made my way to the Kansas Wildlife Preserve. For the next forty miles, I was in the preserve or riding around its border.

A primitive campsite in the Preserve

I was low on water as I reached Danny Elliott City Park in Oswego, KS. I stopped to fill my bottles and considered ending my day here under a massive shade tree. It was still early in the day, so I got back on the bike to pedal another ten miles of gravel.

I am now in Chetopa, KS, at the Elmore City Park for the night. To my delight and surprise, the campground has showers and a pavilion to sleep under. There is a 30% chance of rain around midnight.

As I was settling in, an ATV came over, and Kenny, who lives nearby, offers his kindness to campers in the park. I graciously accepted three boxes of mini pies, apple juice, and a hammock to stretch between the poles of the pavilion.

There is a wonderfully dry breeze. I think I’ll sleep well.

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Touring

Pittsburg, KS

I discussed options for today with Nancy. I need to get to Pittsburg, MO. today to be on schedule. Yesterday, Cory offered me a place to camp on their property. Cory, Ashlee, and their wonderful son, Owen, live north of the city of Pittsburg. From Stockton Lake State Park to Greenfield, MO, to get back on route, the distance is twenty miles. From Greenfield to Pittsburgh, it is fifty-six miles. We had planned that Nancy would shuttle me back to my route.

Nancy agreed to bring me to Lamar, MO, to pick up my route there. This would allow us a more relaxed morning. And, a more relaxed day of riding.

We get to Lamar around eleven a.m.  I load my bike and grab a bite to eat, then begin the ride to Pittsburg. Nancy and Moe head back to Stockton Lake.

Back roads riding west.

I cross into Kansas on the TransAm Route at mile 25.5 at 2/40 p.m. I rode here back in 2022.

I arrived at my host’s home at 4:20 p.m. Cory came home a few minutes later. I am relaxing in the shade, gulping ice water. I’m going to let it cool a bit before setting up camp.

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Touring

Stockton Lake day 3

Today began sort of so-so. Breakfast, visiting neighbors, and relaxing with coffee. But, the coffee was not so relaxing. Nancy informed me that she has a problem. Her iPad slipped down a crack behind a storage lid and the sloping ceiling. The area is not accessible! We removed things out of the storage and cleared the bed. I started removing the screws to remove the storage box. It won’t slide out with the slope. We needed to move the wall panel 1/4” forward to get it out. The twelve screws to be removed, for no foreseeable reason, had a combination of three different heads. Each of the three required different bits. The Camp Host lent us her set of bits, with lots of contorting to fit into the small space, sweat, and aggravation. We were able to locate and retrieve the iPad. Swearing the whole time was not an option; this was the only easy thing during the duration.

All is packed back up and put away. It is hot and humid. We are in the shade, enjoying the breeze.

As the heat of the day waned, we took cool showers to get rid of the sweat and to cool our bodies. I grilled two hot dogs and finished a rice and carrot side dish cold from the refrigerator.

We gave in and turned on the air conditioner. Cool and dry, soon drifting off to sleep.

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Touring

Stockton Lake day 2

The cell service sucked just as badly this morning. I do not understand how having two bars of 5G is not enough to load any of my apps, weather, Google Maps, or RWGPS. I need to be able to open these to load my route and plan my sleep stops.

Instead of cooking breakfast, we decided to drive to the town of Stockton. There is a laundromat and places to eat. In Stockton, I was still getting 5G cell service, but here everything opened quickly. I was able to plan the first day that I leave. I should be in cell coverage once again for a while anyway.

We got back to the campsite mid-afternoon. I rested. By dinner time, the thunder and rain came, keeping us under the screen tent and camper.

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Touring

Stockton Lake State Park, MO

The rain begins this morning at 5:30, but today it arrives as a downpour with thunder and lightning.

I went back to sleep until 6:30. No reason to hurry; the thunder and rain is here until 11:00. I only have a twenty-three-mile ride to Nancy’s campsite at Stockton Lake State Park.

Once up, I began packing up the tent and gear; everything is damp. I set up under a shelter so nothing is soaked. It had been raining since 3 p.m. yesterday. It poured overnight.

With everything packed except the cooking gear, I cooked oatmeal. Once eaten, I brewed coffee and sat on the bench enjoying my cup of Elbow Room with an oatmeal raisin cookie.

It is now 11, and the rain is clearing, and I see bits of blue sky in the distance. I load my bike and fill the water bottles. I start my GPS and begin today’s ride.

I am riding off the planned route, so last night I mapped a route to Stockton Lake. I began riding out of town on a small county road. After eight miles, I turned onto a nice gravel road through rolling farmland. The steep hills are behind me; I’m out of the Ozarks.

Cattle in waterhole.

With less than ten miles left, I was once again on pavement. Just small country roads. A gas station with some food options, one being pints of ice cream, Dr. Pepper, and Gatorade. I bought all three of these. All was gone in fifteen minutes.

I begin the last three miles to the campsite. It is hot with no rain in sight. I string a line and dry the tent, sleeping gear, and the wet rain gear. Then I enjoy a shower and dinner, burgers and a rice side dish.  We visit with campsite neighbors. Their son is now riding ACA’s Route 66.

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Touring

Walnut Grove, MO

Last night’s sky before the rain.

I first noticed light rain at 5 a.m. I went back to sleep. A little before 7am I decided to start packing up my gear. Brandon was also getting ready.

We both checked the weather and discussed whether to wait or go. This cycle went on for a few hours. While doing this, we nibbled on snacks. Our gear was packed and loaded. We were waiting for the heavy rain to lighten up.

It’s 9:26. The rain is once again a soft drizzle.  We decided to go. I swung my leg over the saddle and clipped in. We were heading west again.

I hope to get to Walnut Grove before the heavy rain that is coming through this afternoon. Brandon is thinking about riding off course to a bike shop in Springfield.

I am now 1.6 miles from Walnut Grove City Park. The rain begins. I call the city office to let them know that I have arrived.

I set up the tent in a small raised shelter.

The rain is hammering on the metal roof. I am settling in, happy to be here. Cooking dinner is next before calling it a day.

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Touring

Fair Grove, MO

Looking at the last two days of climbing to get to Annapolis, MO.

Day 1
Day 2


The morning drizzle stopped by 7 a.m. Nancy and I got ready to leave the campground.

Nancy will shuttle me to Fair Grove, where I am camping tonight at the Historical Park. This is 3:30 hours away by car. She will then head to Stockton Lake, which is an hour’s drive for her.

On the way, we drove on the TransAm route. We came across a loaded cyclist.

Today is the Farmers Market at the park from 3 to 7 p.m. Score! Fresh foods, music, a food truck, and a restroom with a shower.

Brandon, the cyclist we passed, is staying here tonight. We are talking tours. This is nice.

Stockton Lake is a two-day ride for me. I hope to get there on the 29th. If I am successful, I will have two days at the lake with her. I will be back on schedule.

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Touring

Johnsons State Park, MO

I was awake at 5 a.m. and began thinking about the ride ahead of me. I was rested but still tired from yesterday. I packed up my bike, swallowed some water, and ate some dry granola. I am now down to one and a half bottles of water. I have fifteen miles to the first place to get water and food.

I get back onto the gravel, two inches of walnut-sized stone. The road is full of washboard stone, making riding difficult and slow. I go up and down; the next down is steep, long, and winding. In the hollow, I come across a herd of goats huddled together in the road.

On the other side of the goats is a hill, turns out to be about a mile-long climb with the steepest section being a 20% grade. I begin to push the bike; it’s all I can do to get to the top after multiple rest stops.

I stop and rest at the top and gulp down water. I finally have cell service and text Nancy. An ATV comes up the hill and stops. The man driving is a Josh, live close by. We talk, and he gives me very good advice of the area. He directs me to a Dollar General on route, but it is ten miles away.

So far, riding this terrain with these road conditions has taken me ninety minutes to go five miles.

I have a 56-mile day and 40 miles to go. I take Josh’s advice and stay on the paved road to Annapolis. The paved roads are still very still, and some hills require pushing my bike. I have low energy from the day before and the lack of water and food.

From Annapolis, I would still have another fifteen miles to the campground. I get to Annapolis at 6:30 pm exhausted. Nancy had gotten my text and call to talk. I now have cell; she is at a campground forty minutes away, and she offers to pick me up to stay with her.

It is after 9 pm, I am at her campground. I shower and slide off to sleep.