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Tentist and the Teapot

Lolo Hot springs, MT.

I spent an extra day in Hamilton because my phone is dying so a new phone is needed. The simplest things can quickly turn into nightmares. AT&T had a phone in the store so I tried to buy it. I logged into my account and gave them the code that was texted and my identity pin and also gave my license to the store staff to prove that I indeed am me. The salesperson and the AT&T headquarters were satisfied but because the scan didn’t scan my license I was denied purchasing the phone. After three hours of trying to convince AT&T to sell me the phone Nancy finally got them to agree to let them scan her license and I had the phone.

Today I left Hamilton to sleep in a campground in Lolo Hot Springs, MT. with my new phone. The first 30 miles were on a bikeway. In Florence I stopped for lunch at a small cafe, fish and chips with rhubarb pie.

Once in Lolo I began the climb to my campsite. I set up camp and walked across the road to the restaurant for dinner. When I returned to my site a woman from a neighboring site walked over to give me some home baked cookies. She and her husband are from Alberta, Canada and are visiting the area. This will be a nice night with the fresh cool air.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Hamilton, MT.

I began leaving Wisdom at 8 AM in the cold 37° air to make my way to Hamilton 73 miles away. The first pass was an easy climb to where I coasted into a valley where the hill still showed the charred remains of a forest fire 5 years ago.

The next long and steep climb was over Chief Joseph Pass with a 10 mile drop into the next valley twisting my way through hairpin turns with gorgeous views.

I ate lunch at an RV campground restaurant and set off for the next town, Darby, for an ice cream and iced tea. From Darby it was an 18 mile ride into Hamilton where I met up with Nancy. We stayed and will visit with Mark and LaDonna, friends of Nancy’s brother.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Wisdom, MT.

This morning I was fresh again, the rest day yesterday gave me recovery from the long grind into the wind. I left at 8 AM, a later start then I had hoped but still early enough for the 68 miles to Wisdom, MT. I would need to climb the two passes and the wind was not in my face so the climbs were easy.

It was nice rolling carefree and enjoying the scenery. The mosquitoes are horrendous and attack like riled bees. Nancy passed me just before Jackson, I waved her over and asked if she’d like to join me for lunch. The small town restaurant was a great find, my bacon burger was very good. The last twenty miles to Wisdom went by quickly. I am now staying at the American Legion’s camp hostel.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Dillon, MT.

Leaving Ennis with fresh legs for the 8 mile climb over the pass between the Tobacco Root Mountains and the Gravelly Range.

I stopped in Virginia City for breakfast, Eggs Benedict was my choice. The next small town, Nevada City is another old gold rush town.

I met up with Roger and Scott, a father and son, who were riding the same tour and also heading to Dillon for the night. We stopped at a rest area just out of Twin Bridges, this small town park has restrooms and a small cyclist hostel. We arrived at 1 PM fresh and chose to continue the 28 miles to Dillion thinking we would be there by mid afternoon.

This is when the wind began to blow a steady 20 mph with frequent gusts of 50 mph. The rest of the day was a brutal battle into the wind. By the time I got close to Dillon my legs were ready to cramp and my stomach was reaching vomit mode. It took 5 hours pushing the gears I use to climb a 15% grade to reach Dillon.

I have been riding into headwinds like this for a month now. I’m tired of this shit. The strongest headwinds on the east coast have been put into perspective. Nothing I’ve experienced back east compares, I will never again complain about the wind when I get back to New England.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Ennis, MT.

I rode away from Henry’s Lake a bit later than planned. The huckleberry pancakes were a treat but slowed the morning start. Nancy was rushing to go to a nature preserve and I was trying to pack and not forget anything. Once I pedaled away I began to relax.

My route, a detour around Yellowstone, was on rte 87 bringing me to the upper entrance of Yellowstone to connect with the TransAM route. Ten mile into the ride I was on the opposite side of Henry’s Lake and I could look across and see Nancy’s camper. Riding the wide shoulder I heard metal under the rear tire and a pop and hiss. The metal sliced the tread and the ¼” slit was spurting sealant. I laid my bike on its side and rotated the wheel until the cut bled the tire on the gravel shoulder. I took out my tools and plugged the hole then removed the valve core fed sealant into the tire. After replacing the core I pumped the tire, all this without needing to remove the wheel from the bike, and rode off down the road to the Montana state line. Tubeless rocks!

Today I found that elusive tailwind! It really does exist after all. This is the first tailwind I have had since Virginia as I began riding west.

I’m now in Ennis, MT. relaxing at a cycling hostel.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Henry’s Lake Campground, ID.

Rolling my bike out the door into a 35° crisp day I begin my 53 mile trip to Henry’s Lake, ID. It’s 6 AM and the rain is predicted to begin by 10 AM. Riding in the cold is a better option than riding in cold rain. Today I will ride through the Mesa Falls parkway in the Caribou-Targhee National Forest.

My first 30 miles were quiet with only a few cars and two touring cyclists heading for the east coast. I am in an evergreen forest with wet meadows and fields of flowers. A habitat for bear, moose, and elk, I only saw an elk.

The cold rain began as I was leaving the forest to connect with SR 20, a busy highway. Now, 47° and hard steady rain I pedaled on with frozen hands. I stopped at a gas station for warm coffee, warming my finger around the cup before drinking the brew. I also bought a pair of glove liners hoping to keep the cold from my fingers.

With only five miles to go the sun popped and the rain cleared. I arrived at the campsite and I clipped and leaned my bike up against the camper. Nancy and the dogs, Scooby and Moe came out to greet me. Today I felt much better so I hope this is the beginning of the end of my COVID.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Ashton, WY.

Today I left Driggs after a quick breakfast pedaling for Ashton, ID. The rain and thunderstorm was on its way and I would like to stay ahead of the front and get settled in before it catches me. I have 40 miles to ride with the storm nipping my heels while booming in the near distance.

I was routed on a nice gravel bikeway.

I made it into town around noon and was lucky enough to get a room, the last one in town. With Yellowstone closed all the area towns and campgrounds are full. After a shower ans relaxing I walked up the street and had dinner at the Five 11 Pizzeria. It was raining as I walked back to my room.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Driggs, ID.

Before leaving Jackson I had a nice breakfast at the Bunnery, the Jackson omelette. The first few miles rolled along a nice quiet bikeway bringing me to the Teton Pass. Up, up, and straight up it was. The old Teton Pass road is now the bikeway up the pass so it was a lot steeper and windy than the new roadway. I was looking at some 18% grades, hauling my 70# loaded bike up to the top powered by my sorry sick ass.

Teton Pass, the average grade 13.5%

I stopped at a small lake half way up to drink and eat hoping to stop my coughing fit.

Once at the top I once more ate and drank while talking with other cyclists that had also reached the top.

The long switchback drop to the valley of small towns below provided enough recovery to make it to Driggs, ID and find a place to get settled in and have dinner. I’ll be sleeping early tonight. Tomorrow, hopefully, will be an easier day with more miles forward.

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Tentist and the Teapot

Jackson, WY.

Today I left Coulter Bay Campground in the Grand Teton Park after a four day rest. My route was to go through Yellowstone but just before getting there the Park closed. Rain and water damage washed out the roads so my route was altered into Jackson, WY. going around the park through the Tetons.

Following the advice from my sister I am riding short days and getting lots of rest. The chest cold I have been riding with for ten days turned out to be COVID. The northwest is a hotspot and riding isolated wasn’t enough protection even with the vaccinations.

Short miles are better than no miles!

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Tentist and the Teapot

Twin Pines RV Landers, WY.

Today I left at 5:30 AM to stay ahead of the wind and to beat the afternoon rain. The temperature of 48° and the soft cool wind felt nice and pants with a windbreaker would make for a comfortable ride. From Jeffery City the first eleven miles are a steady low grade climb.

The scenery begins to change and soon I am at the crest with views of the valley below. As I turn into a lookout another cyclist is approaching ahead of his riding companion. They see me and also come into the lookout. Two Brits greet me with warm smiles and hearty hellos. They are riding 120-160 miles per day on their loaded bikes. Their visas are holding them to a tight schedule.

As I get close to Nancy’s campsite at Twin Pines RV Park I hit road construction and get held up. I can see the campground just up the road but I was not allowed to go ahead riding the shoulder so I waited in line for the pilot car to lead us up the road. As I wait I am by a flashing sign announcing that all roads into Yellowstone are closed due to flooding and road damage. Now I need an alternate route around the park.

End of day at the campsite